What do you do if someone is allway "all in"?

Hi NoRookie815, :smiley:
I am sorry you are feeling frustrated. I know we all have felt the same from time to time. I took a look at some of your recent hands and every hand you won you were not the big stack, not even the biggest stack in the hand. I think that if you look through the hand histories of some other players here you will see the same. Pick a few players at random and look at each hand they won at showdown you will see that for most of those hands they were not the big stack. Of course you will find hands where the big stack wins but not even close to always.

Just scroll to the bottom of your dashboard or any main lobby page:

click on “Players Online”, “Seated”, or “Moderators” and you will be brought to this page, just click on any player name:

scroll down until you see “View latest Hands”:

Click on any hand. You can watch any players last 200 hands this way. I suggest looking at players’ “best Hands” and “Biggest Pots” but regardless you will find that the vast majority of winning hands do not belong to the biggest stack or even the biggest stack in the hand.

I am sure almost everybody on this site feels your frustration and I know you don’t want to hear it but your fortunes will change. Just give it some time. With the perspective six months or a year or more under your belt I am sure you will feel differently. Good luck to you!! Perhaps we will meet at the tables sometime.
Cheers! :smiley:

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Since returning 6 weeks ago why is it I cannot ever hit a flush when everyone else on the table does pairs regardless of size never comes in everyone else’s does don’t play runs no point as a flush always wins so practically in 6 weeks I’m lucky to win 0.001% of hands played “Variables ?” I am told you just have to play through things will change YEAH right well I don’t think much of them and certainly don’t think much when losing 2 hands with pp Queens when some one goes all in with nothing not even suited and wins don’t make sense to me I would love to know how some one goes all in with 29u and gets a win on river every single time and another thing how come every 1 gets high cards dealt I get low cards and flop always goes high I get high and flop always goes low I would like to know how many hands have been won on the river against how many have been lost Variables lol seems that no matter what these variables are a f nuisance and no way are they variable the law of averages just dont equate and getting froze out of a hand when trying to make a bet is getting annoying even more so when you would have won!!!

Tony
Can you please edit this to make sense. Stops… Comma’s , , , and such.

wait for a killer hand and nail them…OR leave the table

In “real” poker if you go all in you either win or get busted out,fair enough.
But in Replay poker the all in player can just instantly reload and carry on.

This created two classes of player on the table,the all in reloaders & the regular players.

I would propose a penalty of sitting out for 3 hands to discourage this type of play.

What do my fellow Replay poker people think?

Regards DH

it is a play money site lol . If you don’t like NL play i suggest you play PL or FL

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Why not create a place on Replay where all-in or fold are the only two options for the

bingo players. It would attract them there and help keep them away from the serious games.

I’d bet it would be more popular than the Step to 1 Million.

6 player table wait to fill at say 40K buy in.

240k pot if everyone went all-in then rebuy option

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Hi Horseracing, :smiley:

I am pretty sure that when you go all in in a cash game and loose, if you have more money in your pocket you can buy more chips and continue playing. In real money tournaments if it is a rebuy tournament and if you have the cash and the rebuy period has not expired you may rebuy and continue playing also.

I think the main difference between replay and “real” games is as ColbyRoad said… it is a play money site. You will run into many players who do not even try to manage their stack or bank.

A while back I played against one guy who would have millions of chips one day, loose them all and then the next day have millions again over and over. He was a really bad player and would go all in constantly. My conclusion was that he was buying his chips and didn’t really care about loosing them.

Since going all in at any time in a no limit game is completely within the rules and totally at the players discretion you cannot penalize folks for following the rules and since Replay strives to replicate the “real” poker experience as closely as possible, the rules here will probably not change.

If you take a look through the forums you will see posts regarding this subject going back for years. This “problem” has been around as long as play money poker has. Just because you do not like how someone plays, does not mean you can dictate how another player may play as long as their play is within the rules.

Let fools be fools and see if you can profit from their foolishness when the opportunity presents itself. Hope this helps.
Cheers!

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@grapevine or @Tiandra can we fold this topic into the previous topic:
https://forum.casino.org/t/what-do-you-do-if-someone-is-allway-all-in/

Thanks :grinning:

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when you play NL ring games there is no bingo.Play fixed or pot limit and what TOU perceive as BINGO goes away. easy peasy

so, what you do is play TAG tight aggressive play hands that are the best hands AA KK and you can attack him when they are out of position, they don’t always have great cards you have to wait for the right time to play your hands call them with your best hands fold your crappy hands.and make sure you play in position.

Playing tight is winning, but it’s a long way from the most profitable way to play against these people.

If someone is shoving 100% of hands, then:

  • Calling with the top 50% of hands results in a win/loss ration of ~56:41. If you are 100bb deep, that’s a profit of 750bb per hundred hands.
  • Calling with JJ+, AQs+, AKo (3.3% of hands) results in a win loss ration of ~74:25. That might sound a lot better, but it’s a profit of “only” 160bb per hundred.

Play tight if you find that more comfortable, it’s not losing, but you should be aware that you’re giving up significant profits by doing so, and you’re also leaving yourself at the mercy of variance by playing far fewer hands.

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Sorry for the really late reply, @lihiue is right about calling wide being profitable vs 1 player and somewhat wide vs multiple players if they are playing really wide too (but you have to know this).
Since Poker is all about long term results rather than short term result what @lihiue suggest is the correct way to play. The math don’t lie.

BUT there are more nuances (Position, ICM, your edge, etc.) at play than just call relatively wide and print (long term wise). I suggest that as a rule of thumb just call tight. There is an old saying that Tight is Right, and by tight I do not mean wait for AA or KK, I’m talking about calling with 22+,ATs+,KJs+,QJs,ATo+,KJo+,QJo (AT+ means that you should call with AT, AJ, AQ, AK) and less combos than that if there is another maniac shoving in front of you.

By playing tight you don’t really have to worry about the technical nuance stuff. Just remember that you will not always win, even with AA. Also it may seem that is wrong to call somewhat wide but if you go in depth you will see that it is actually profitable to call wide vs this specific type of villain. That is why having a good healthy bankroll is crucial so you can sustain the variance (what we see as luck).

Agree 100%. I probably didn’t make it clear above, but I’m not advocating for ever calling with 50% of hands - I was just trying to demonstrate that if you had to choose between doing so or only ever playing extremely strong hands, then the wider approach is significantly more profitable. Basically, you should look to play any hand you think will be profitable as the default option and tighten up when there are good reasons to do so. If someone has already called the maniacs all-in for example. In that case I would fold almost everything because the callers range will usually be much stronger than it should be.
Also, even in a ring game, you can easily lose a couple of hands in a row to the maniac, at which point they might take off. There’s enough maniacs that it’s not usually a big deal, but it is frustrating and does require patience and a healthy bankroll as @Punlsher says.

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what you say is true…patience is key but Colby is right also,if you don’t like all in don’t play NL. Pot limit and fixed limit should be your game. Crrying about players going all in is a waste of time…JMO

Hi. New to the site but not online poker.
Now, I’ve just joined recently and have only visited for a few quick visits but, from what I can tell so far, there seems to be one strategy here - All in! What’s up with that?

Hi. Not sure what sort of tables/stakes you’re playing at? I almost exclusively play at MTT’s, have noticed there’s a lot of what you say going on at the lower stakes, seems many don’t care since it’s free, often they’re hoping for good luck with poor hands. The play is better at 250k buy in tourneys, but still that goes on…some try to bluff you at of your socks, lol. You’ll find much more “real” play at 1 mil buy ins or better…course you need like a 20 million bankroll or better to smartly enter those, thus if you need to play lesser stakes, play tight, be aggressive with good hands, try to “see” if they’re bluffing, throw your own bluff in occasionally with position, hope for lady luck…not sure what else to say, enjoy playing and good luck.

It depends what on the board! But if you dont belive in your cards fold and be calm! Ride it out,they will lose in the end and remember its not in the start you win a tourny its in the end you win it! Cards will come and play it smart! All in dudes dont last to the end!!

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The better, best way to deal with all in freaks, maniacs with Any 2 cards all in range is in the middle, between what Lihiue and Punisher said. In Punisher’s example, if ATC maniac shoves all in UTG, and I am in mid position, I am calling if I have AJ suited+, AQ offsuit+, AQ suited+, KQ suited, 77+. Both Lihuie and Punisher are right. On the cutoff, button, SB, BB, that range is AT suited+, 66+, KQ offsuit+.

I call with that range, because even tho it’s a marginal spot, it’s still a razor thin edge +EV spot, that if want to semi consistently cash, final table, final 4, win, etc, one needs to take, not turn down razor thin edge +EV spots, flips, and get a little tiny bit lucky to win flips, razor thin edge +EV spots, have hands hold up, etc.

Also another reason for this kind of call is that good, great, monster hands don’t grow on trees, are not common, and if dont take advantage of these kind of spots, then will blind down to 4,5,6,7 bb stacks, and bust out, blind out more. Taking and winning these kind of spots, gives you more maneuverability, playability, where I can bring my skill edge into play, and chip up even more. It’s harder to bring skill edge into play, if saddled with a 4 to 6 to 8 BB stack, because you passed on +EV spots, and because of that your stuck with shove, fold.

If I take advantage of this kind of spot, and win the spot, with my skill edge, I probably will cash, final table, final 4, etc.

That said I dont call with A9 suited, AT, AJ off, in mid position in Punisher’s example, because it’s about 50/50 ± EV, too razor thin of a spot, that I am better served folding, using skill edge.

Also it depends on how good the competition in the tournament, at my table. If competition is tough, I am more likely to take the spot, call. If competition is bad, I am more likely to turn down spot, fold, use my skill edge.

I’d recommend a course to OP that is between what Lihiue and Punisher advocate, recommend, do, said, etc.